Art of making low-cut shoes



S. A. EDDINS AND W. H. BAYNARD.

ART OF MAKING LOW CUT SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED N.OV.28. 1919.

1,386,850. Patented Aug. 9, 1921...

Al; @0 64. d.

un-ire SEXTUS A EDDINS, 0F BROCKTON, AND WILLIAM H. BAYNARD, 0F

CHUSET'IS.

asses-5o.

Original application filed August 29, 1919, Serial No. 320,688. Divided and this application filed Novem- Serial No. 341,086.

her 28, 1919.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that we, Snx'rus A. EDDINs, a citizen of the United States, and resident of Brockton, in the county of Plymouth and State of Massachusetts, and WILLIAM H. BAYNARD, a citizen of the United States, and resident of Boston, in the county of Suifolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in the Art of Making Low-Cut Shoes, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying'd'rawings, is a specification, like letters on the drawings representing like parts.

' Our invention is an improved process for making low cut shoes, Oxfords, pumps, and

' i the like, and is a division of our prior application, Ser. No. 320,686, filed August 29, 1919, describing both the process and the improved last used therewith.

As explained in our said prior application, considerable difficulty has been heret0- fore experienced in the manufacture of socalled low cut boots, shoes, pumps, oxfords, slippers, etc., during the pullingover and lasting action. In making low cut shoes it has been impossible to hold the upper materials snugly or firmly onto the last to resist the pull and strain of the lasting operation, because of the length of the shoe opening. In high cut shoes, where lacing or buttons hold the upper materials on the last, the same difficulty is not experienced, as when making shoes without such laced or buttoned top. It has, therefore, been the practice to apply tacks through the upper or through the lining or even to secure to low cut shoes an extra strip which was tacked directly to the last to hold the edge of the upper in alinement with the style, design and fit intended, and then to last the shoe. Such prior operations, however, have been most unsatisfactory, have necessitated repeated and continuous handling, requiring hand operations and resulting in inaccuracy in the tacking, unevenness in the strain, damages to the shoe, and poor fitting in the resulting oxford, pump or low cut shoe. Our invention contemplates the novel process of temporarily securing the edge of the upper to the last along a substantial line and to effect this securing action with- Specification of Letters Patent.

ART OF MAKING LOW-CUT SHOES.

Patented Aug. M1321.

out injury to the upper material, entirely independently of any tacking, holding strips or similar devices, and yet to enable the upper to. be quickly alined, clamped and held, and instantly released when the last is completed. Our improved last and clamping arrangment is intended to be claimed in said prior application and in the present case we have elected to claim the and stretching of the leather while holding the upper materials in correct and desired alinement in shape, constitutes an improved method and we wish to claim the same broadly.

Referring to the drawings illustrating our improved last, novel type of clamp, and showing the process of lasting- BOSTON, MASSA- Figure 1 is a perspective view of one type v of clamp which may be employed;

Fig. 2 is a side view of a pump shoe on the last with the clamping holding same in position; and

Fig. 3 is a cross sectional view on the line 3.3 of Fig. l.

The drawings illustrate our process as applied to the usual type of welt made shoe, but it is of equal importance, as will be explained later, in the manufacture of turn shoes.

It willbe appreciated that the last and clamp shown in the drawings are for purposes of illustration only and that our invention, broadly considered, is not limited to this type of last or clampany last and suitable clamping devices being within the scope of the invention and intended to be covered by certain of the appended claims. The improved processof making such shoes, is the same irrespective of the type of last or style and design of clamp employed.

Referring to the drawings, a last 1 is illustrated in conventional form; on which shoe upper materials 2 are assembled, such shoe being of the low cut, oxford, or pump type. A sole or insole 3 is also illustrated, such shoes being either of the turn,-welt, or

' McKay typeusually turns, or welts-and therefore as illustrated in the drawing, 3 indicates an insole. lVith the insole and upper thus assembled, the upper materials 7 are lasted, 6., pulled over and the marginal edge of the insole around the forepart and shank and'secured thereto by lasting tacks driven partly into the insole 3 and last, as

i such a type of pumps which has been so difindicated at 4, 4. It is this lasting action on is ficult heretofore to perform, the topmost edge of the upper materials 5 being substantially unsupported from the throat of the vamp 6 to the heel 7. Whenlasting a laced Q, or buttoned shoe, the upper materials are held across the top of cone of the last and thereby resist the pull of the lasting-operation but in the type of shoe herein considered,the

edge 5 has no means to hold against'the last without additional attachment to the last.

. Our invention contemplates the uselof atlast at. asuificient height to be above the I edge 5 of the upper materials of a shoe intended to be made thereon. Through this recess 10 they clamp may be fitted comprising, as here shown, a sleeve 12internally threaded to receive correspondingly thread ed bolt 1 1, the latter having a head 15 with a beveled face 16adapted to bear. against a clamp plate 17 The sleeve 12 carries a handle 18, also having its innersurface 7 formed as a beveled face 19 to bear against the clamping plate 20. Partial rotation of the handle 18 acts to lengthen or to shorten the combined bolt formed by the members 12 and 14 and thereby to, tighten or release the clamps 17 andQO against the sides of the last 1 or against the marginal portion5 of the uppermaterials2 on saidlast.

In operation, a clamping.apparatusfmay beattached to each last and the upper and insole assembled. thereon, the edge portion 5 of the upper on each side of-the last being fitted under the clamp 1'1 and 20'while the latter are loosexon the members 12 or 14 in extendedjpositlon. The upper can thus be alined properly on the last and usually a tack 21 applied to the heel. .Thereupon a handle 18 is manipulatedto clamp the sides of the upper firmly on the last, whereupon it is ready for the "side 'lasting o 'jeration, driving of the tacks 4t and completion ofthe shoe. If desired, the clamp may be entlrely detached from the last and appliedto another-last, and, if desired, the shoe upper may first be applied to the last and then the clamp fitted thereto to clamp and hold the upper. 'l/Vhile we have illustrated our type of clamp to include the right and left hand threaded arrangement shown in the 'mem-i bers12 and 18,- we contemplate the use of any: other mechanically equivalent; means such as cams to quickly tighten and loosen the clamps'12 and 20-also to. form'these i v clamps of such length and contour as may best carry out the invention on particular lasts or goods. 1 r

.Inthe making of turn shoes of the 16%" cut type, the sole isapplied to the'last. with the tread surfacenext thelast surface, and r the upper applied thereon inside out.- -The shoe is then-lasted, and sewed, and the last withdrawn and the shoe turned. Thereupon the shoe now turned is relasted, andin this operation a lastfhaving our improved clamp,

should be employed .to carry outthe process on turn shoes. At the time of relastingsuch low cut shoe of the turn typeit has.hereto-' fore been necessary to pull upwardly lthe edge portionofthe top of'theupper materials andtack the same to thelast, whereas by our process we are enabled to pull up the upper snugly along the last, after-relasting,

and then clampthe same thereto, thussaving marring by lasting tacks, andeliminatmg all the objectionable as already explained. I

fined in the form of claims as follows tacking operations,

Our invention is further described and de 1. The improved processof making low cut shoesrwhich consists in assembling the upper materials on the last, pulling over the toe portion, and clamping the topmost portion of theupper' tightly along 'the sides of the last for. a substantial'length between the throat of the vamp and the he'elto hold the edge of the upperein alinement. during the lasting operation.

2. The improved method of making lowm cutshoes whlch comprises assembling the.

upper materials on the last, clamping'a sulo stantial length of the marginal edge -ofthe upper tightly against the last and onboth sides of that portion of thelast lying be-. 1 V

tween the throat of the vamp and-the heel, then lasting the shoe, then disengagingthe upper from the last'and completing the shoe.

3. That improvement in theart of mak-' ing shoes wherein a lacing or button upper is not employed, which consists in assem 'bling the upper materials sole or insole? iee on the last, preliminarily fitting the upper, names to this specification, in the presence temporarily securing the topmost edge porof two subscribing Witnesses.

tion of the upper to the last on each side SEXTUS A. EDDINS.

thereof, Without perforating the upper, per- WILLIAM H. BAYNARD. 5 forming the lasting, and then completing the Witnesses:

shoe. JAMES R. HoDDER,

In testimony whereof, We have signed our HAROLD J. CLARK. 

